Since I've been posting up some pics about this on Facebook and Instagram, I thought it might be nice to share a bit more about the design process for those curious in reading more.
I've included the grand list of changes below. There were lots! One of the issues I struggled with throughout the prototyping process was fit. The pattern-maker initially strongly encouraged me to make my dress with a standard fit (i.e. not so busty, more like normal clothes found in stores that are designed to 80+% of women).. I found time and time again through the iterations both me and my fit testers asked for changes to make it more busty, tighter at the waist, more curvy... It works for us. :)
Here's the actual email I sent detailing the changes:
Hi,
I've had to chance to examine and test the dress out. It's great and I want a number of fit adjustments.
Arm: The length is currently about 1" too short (and with the armhole adjustment they'll need to be lengthened more). Overall, the fit is a bit too snug and the lack of lining makes the interior seam uncomfortable. I'd like either "Hong Kong" finishing on the interior armhole seams or to try the arms lined to solve the issue.
Armholes: Need to come into the shoulder and body of the garment and tighter to the armpit, about a 1" reduction all the way around.
Shoulder Seam: The seam is .5 cm less on the Right vs. the Left (I measure 3 times and they really don't match). Overall the seam needs to be about 1.5-2cm shorter.
Back Yolk: Needs to be reduced, at least 5cm, no more than 10cm.
V-Neck: Adjust down about 1", in line with the bottom of the armhole. Can we sharpen the V-point? Also, can we reinforce to ensure no tear through?
Above the bust-line: Near the armhole there is a lot of bagginess, needs to come in; maybe a steeper curve to the princess lines to adjust. Same issue on the back near the armhole; too much fabric, needs to come in. This is particularly true on the lining.
Bust-line: Too tight, both the lining and the dress.
Under-bust to Waist: Too loose, very baggy at the waist, particularly the lining.
Hip to Hemline: The width at the hemline should be narrower. Not a hobble skirt, but a pencil style. Still walk-able, but reduced by inches.
Seams on the Lining: The seams on the lining show through way too much and move awkwardly. I think the best option would be to remove most of the seaming from the lining from the under-bust/waist area down to the hemline and rely on the stretch of the mesh to provide the shaping needed. I'm open to other suggestions on how to solve this issue.
Seams on the Dress: Can we remove the side seams and still have sufficient shaping through the other seams?
Zipper: The zipper bunches up awkwardly and ends up in the small of your back. I think this is partly due to the bagginess at the waist and hips, but I also think the length of the zipper is an issue. I've tried the garment on a number of times with the zipper closed to ~15-16" and I think it's definitely possible to reduce the zipper length. I think it would be far better than the current aesthetic experience. I've gone ahead and placed an order for a dozen of the #5 invisible zippers in 18" length.
If it would be better to meet to review these details in person and see the issues, please let me know what days and times would work well for you.
Thanks!
And here are a bunch of pics:
I've included the grand list of changes below. There were lots! One of the issues I struggled with throughout the prototyping process was fit. The pattern-maker initially strongly encouraged me to make my dress with a standard fit (i.e. not so busty, more like normal clothes found in stores that are designed to 80+% of women).. I found time and time again through the iterations both me and my fit testers asked for changes to make it more busty, tighter at the waist, more curvy... It works for us. :)
Here's the actual email I sent detailing the changes:
Hi,
I've had to chance to examine and test the dress out. It's great and I want a number of fit adjustments.
Arm: The length is currently about 1" too short (and with the armhole adjustment they'll need to be lengthened more). Overall, the fit is a bit too snug and the lack of lining makes the interior seam uncomfortable. I'd like either "Hong Kong" finishing on the interior armhole seams or to try the arms lined to solve the issue.
Armholes: Need to come into the shoulder and body of the garment and tighter to the armpit, about a 1" reduction all the way around.
Shoulder Seam: The seam is .5 cm less on the Right vs. the Left (I measure 3 times and they really don't match). Overall the seam needs to be about 1.5-2cm shorter.
Back Yolk: Needs to be reduced, at least 5cm, no more than 10cm.
V-Neck: Adjust down about 1", in line with the bottom of the armhole. Can we sharpen the V-point? Also, can we reinforce to ensure no tear through?
Above the bust-line: Near the armhole there is a lot of bagginess, needs to come in; maybe a steeper curve to the princess lines to adjust. Same issue on the back near the armhole; too much fabric, needs to come in. This is particularly true on the lining.
Bust-line: Too tight, both the lining and the dress.
Under-bust to Waist: Too loose, very baggy at the waist, particularly the lining.
Hip to Hemline: The width at the hemline should be narrower. Not a hobble skirt, but a pencil style. Still walk-able, but reduced by inches.
Seams on the Lining: The seams on the lining show through way too much and move awkwardly. I think the best option would be to remove most of the seaming from the lining from the under-bust/waist area down to the hemline and rely on the stretch of the mesh to provide the shaping needed. I'm open to other suggestions on how to solve this issue.
Seams on the Dress: Can we remove the side seams and still have sufficient shaping through the other seams?
Zipper: The zipper bunches up awkwardly and ends up in the small of your back. I think this is partly due to the bagginess at the waist and hips, but I also think the length of the zipper is an issue. I've tried the garment on a number of times with the zipper closed to ~15-16" and I think it's definitely possible to reduce the zipper length. I think it would be far better than the current aesthetic experience. I've gone ahead and placed an order for a dozen of the #5 invisible zippers in 18" length.
If it would be better to meet to review these details in person and see the issues, please let me know what days and times would work well for you.
Thanks!
And here are a bunch of pics:
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